Saturday, February 23, 2008

The Science of Oily Beans

I've been often asked "Hey, why are my beans all oily?"

Well, there are a few reasons for this, but before I get to the science of it, here's some basics about coffee:

Coffee beans essentially have three components to them (note this is a HIGHLY simplified explanation): the fibrous woody material, fats and protiens, and moisture (which comes from the woody material). When a bean is unroasted or green it is mostly this dense woody material with all the oils and moisture trapped inside. As it is roasted, the cells break down and release the moisture and oils.

That's the basics, but here's the details (I do believe that's where the devil might be) of what happens when you roast a bean. As the bean heats up, the cellular material of the bean breaks down. This releases the coffee oil (sometimes called coffeol - I don't know why) and leaves the woody material. Now, it takes a lot of heat over a longer period of time to pull the oils to the "top" of the bean, and that's why the darker roasts seem oily. As a bean is roasted even further, the sugars are caramelizing, or worse yet cooked right out of the bean (these dark roasts are called Vienna or Italian or the particularly dark and flat, Spanish roast). All that you are left with is essentially a flat tasting oil and wood.

This is why I don't do Italian or Spanish roasts - there are very, very few beans (arguably, perhaps none) that will take that dark a roast and remain tasty.

Interesting side note to all this, as you roast a bean darker, it cooks the caffeine out of it too. So, a darkly roasted "espresso" bean will have LESS caffeine than a properly roasted lighter brown espresso bean.

Let's dig a little deeper into the science of this to better explain why the perfect roast is so important.

When a bean is put in the roaster, the first thing that happens is the roaster heats the bean up past the boiling point of water, that cooks the moisture out of the bean , and starts to change the color of the bean. As the temperature inside the bean climbs from about 170 to 200 Celsius, the sugars in the bean start to caramelize. This reduces the sweetness of the bean, as uncaramelized sugar is much sweeter tasting than caramelized sugar. As the bean caramelizes, the sucrose (sugar) is essentially cooked brown inside the bean. When the bean hits 205C (by the way, that's 401 Fahrenheit), it has its "first crack" - which is just what it sounds like, a cracking sound as the cells of the beans are rupturing (city or city+ roast level).

From here, the longer the bean is roasted, the more the sugars are caramelized reducing the sweetness. However, at the same time, the more the you roast, more of the bitter tasting compounds are broken up and cooked out of the bean. The key to the perfect roast is a balance between not too sweet, but not too bitter either. There is a "second crack" as the bean breaks down further which occurs when the bean hits about 220-230C (Full City or Full City+). We should all think of this as the limit for a bean. Typically, RR won't roast past the second crack (about 225-230C) - this is a good French roast level and is pretty dark.

This is particularly true of espresso. When roasting espresso, many companies tend to focus on roasting the beans very dark to remove the bitterness of the espresso.
But... (now let's see if you have been paying attention) What happens when roast a coffee bean longer?
You're right! The sugars caramelize and remove all sweetness from the bean, leaving a flat, almost stale-tasting, uninteresting espresso.

(Note that a lot of the specifics of this info came from coffeeresearch.org)

I've heard it a thousand times, customers tell me that they prefer my beans (hopefully!) or X brand (unfortunately) coffee to Starbucks because "Starbucks tastes burnt." Why is that? There are two things going on here to give it that burnt taste. First, Starbucks tends to roast their coffees on the dark side - some of them take this very well, many don't, but all seem to be roasted the same regardless. Second, when they make their espresso, they scald the grounds which burns them further. The final step is to add milk or creme and/or sugar to put the sweetness back in, but if you just order espresso it lacks that sweetness. In Starbucks defense (I can't believe I'm defending them!), they did just announce that their baristas were not as focused on the product and customer as they were in their heyday (duh. Ya' think??). Management will close every Starbucks to do a training session with their baristas - so who knows, perhaps their espresso will be good again. I refuse to believe they'd be as big as they are if their espresso was always as craptastic as it is now.

Well, there you go, the science behind coffee roasting and how that relates to Starbucks (who knew this post would end up there!).

Big Dave!

Routiki's Ukulele!!

I almost completely forgot to mention in my last post about new products, we've got a limited edition ukulele designed by artist, Steve Sholtes!! Our little tiki god of outstanding coffee, Routiki, finally has a tribute befitting a tiki god of his stature... a ukulele!




Yep, while this one was a birthday present to me (I'm so lucky), these are available to you as well through the RR coffee shop.

There's nothing at all that goes as well as a ukulele with your hot cup of java!

Big Dave!

New Products coming soon.......

I've already mentioned the coffee of the month that starting in March, but be on the lookout for some other new things kicking around the old shop. I'll officially be selling select Bodum products soon, which I chose mainly because they have a great combination of high style and high quality. More to come on this...

Also, coming soon, RR t-shirts! Yep, you'll be stylin' in our all-organic cotton shirts. Again more to come on this, as I'm hoping to have these in stock in March!

And finally, YES FINALLY, I'll be starting up the Beanmail email newsletter again to keep you all apprised of what's coming up with RR!! I mentioned this clear back in Dec., but never got around to it. Plus, I think I've been talking about starting Beanmail up again for almost all of 2007, well, March is it! Look for the first Beanmail to come very soon (this week, even perhaps?!?)... and drop me a line if you've not already signed up on our website!

Friday, February 22, 2008

Shout out to pals...

You know, I thought it was high time I give a shout out to one of my newest customers and friend...

Jazzy Espresso Cafe at 212 E. Grand River in Harmonie Park (just east of Broadway)

It's a fantastic little cafe and they have started to carry Rouge Roastery coffees. Check them out next time you're hanging out in the D!

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Coffee of the month! (with a crazy tangent into a pricing discussion)

Starting in March, I will begin to off a new variety of coffee every month (a coffee of the month!). Basically, each month, I'll be bringing in something new for all-ya-all to try from various spots around the globe (those who are or aspire to be our CaffeiNation subscribers, you may or may not receive the coffee of the month, depending on what else I have up my sleeve that month!).

Well, I've got March's coffee and as a special to our readers, I'm going to spill the beans now... It's an Ethiopian Harrar. It's got a lot of character to it, and its more of a spicy and winey Ethiopian than the Yirg that I stock (which has strong floral and citric flavors to it). It's a limited supply, as the weather last year did not cooperate with the Harrars... The very wet season meant that drying the beans was next to impossible for many farms and lots of beans were left to rot, rather than dry. This has driven the prices up for the Harrars, so I didn't end up investing a lot into it, so get 'em while you can!

Speaking of prices, there's been lots of news recently about coffee prices climbing. I've been largely shielded from this because I bought big enough quantities of my standard coffee's to have lower cost beans in stock. When I price my new coffee of the month, I find that I get asked often why its so expensive (even my stock prices have climbed as I'm starting cycle through what I have). I don't have a nice, neat, and clean answer for you on this, but here's my attempt:

1) The weak dollar compared to other world currencies is adding to the cost I pay for coffee, as my importers are having to pay more to get the same amount. Doesn't seem like it should make that much difference, but trust me, it does.

2) The weather in 2006 and 2007 in many regions (note the Harrar limited availability described above) has substantially impacted the supply of good coffee - I can probably still get crap coffee in abundance, but why?!?

3) Hurricane Katrina actually had a pretty substantial impact on coffee prices in the Eastern US in 2007 as ports went closed and sources were re-routed. While it seems like we shouldn't be feeling the affects of Katrina in the coffee market now, it is my opinion (not really many facts to go with it in this case, just an opinion) that once prices climb, they never return to the previous level - as evidence, consider how much are you paying for gas now versus a year ago.

I'm doing my best to keep prices steady, but as I rotate in new coffees every month, I'm afraid they won't be my lowest priced varieties.

Well, there you go, a hodge-podge of new coffee and pricing thoughts for you.

Drink on, my friends!
Big Dave!

Sunday, February 10, 2008

MMBA Expo

Today was the MMBA (MI Mtn Bike Assoc) expo today in Davisburg. Rouge Roastery was well represented with Trails-Edge brewing and giving away espresso shots of our Hammerin' Espresso Blend (Thanks, Mike!!). It was the perfect blend of outstanding coffee, great people, and covet-worthy bikes!

I was in heaven, as I sat next to a shiny red new Trek 9.9 carbon fiber bike. The thing was beautiful and it only weighed in at a hair under 22lbs. Let's put some perspective around that for those of you who not are giant bike geeks like me...

I ride a 1994 GT Karakoram with a rack on the back, shocks on the front, and slicks for riding on pavement (I use it commute)... this sucker weighs in at just over 30lbs (guessing about 31-32). My (almost) new hardtail Felt that I got last year, weighs in at 26lbs.
My Cannondale road bike from 2001, weighs in at about 20.
So, does 22 vs. 26 lbs really make that much difference when you ride it?

Oh yeah. This bike will be FAST and should be very aggressive up hills (combination of low weight and stiff frame translates into a lot of your power from your pedal stroke going straight into the back wheel).

Of course there is a downside. This shiny red, carbon fiber, dream machine was marked down to $3,995.00.

Ouch. But that's ok, I love my Felt and I'm not fast enough on a bike to justify a $4K carbon fiber frame anyway.

Besides, just down the isle a bit from that sat the Rocky Mountain stand (I'm a big fan of the Element series!)... One thing for sure, this expo sure made me want to get out ride. Wish it wasn't 1 degree out.

Big Dave!

Saturday, February 02, 2008

Espresso machines

I had someone ask me if I had any espresso machine recommendations. While I have to admit that I don't have a wide variety of experience with a variety of machines, I do have some and I have a current favorite. So, here's a rundown on my experience and recommendations:

Gaggia Coffee de Lux – this is the machine I currently own and I’ve been very pleased with it. It heats well and never burns the espresso. It is well built and stands up to frequent use with consistent water heating, and great crème. A couple years ago these went for about $300, a tremendous value in my opinion. My only three complaints are it is not the quietest of machines, when you use the steamer it can take a while to cycle because it all comes from the same boiler, and it is definitely not the most stylish of machines. However, I'm lucky because my brother painted flames on mine and replaced the front panel so that it now IS the most stylish of machines!

Krups – the machine I have used is no longer made, but that’s ok, it won’t be missed. I’m sure the new batch of Krups for about $200 are similar. This machine did not heat evenly during repeated use. The first batch was always good, but if you did 2 cups or more, it always seemed to scald the beans on the second or third batch. Plus I had pressure problems a couple times because the grounds were too fine (I think). I’ve never had that with my Gaggia.

Starbucks Barista – as much as I hate the idea of recommending anything with Starbucks name on it, I have used this machine and am ashamed to say I was pretty impressed. It makes great espresso with no fuss. I have not had a lot of experience with them, but from what I’ve seen, they are definitely worth take a look at. I’ve read online about some folks having mechanical trouble with them (bad gaskets), but the one that I’ve used has never had a problem. I would guess that it is quieter than my Gaggia, and it seemed to cycle through for frothing milk or your second shot pretty quickly. I would expect these to be priced between $300-$400. The only thing I’m not sure of is if the Barista require the use of Pods (self-enclosed espresso shots). I believe some machines do and some don’t.

Ala di Vittoria La Valentina Levetta – this is the machine that I’m lusting after... I have not used it, but desperately want to get my hands on one. This features a pressure gauge to ensure that you’re getting the proper pressure, pre-infusion chamber to saturate the grounds before steaming, rapid heat exchanger to allow milk frothing immediately after brewing, everything is completely adjustable so you are always sure to get the correct temperature and pressure. And, its got a nice cup warmer on the top! Not to mention that its extremely cool looking. :) It also sells for about $1500-$1700, which is why I have not had a chance to use it personally.

Bottom line:
If you have the means, then go for the La Valentina Lavetta. It's the closest to a professional machine (without actually buying a professional machine) that you'll get at home.
Second best option is the Gaggia Coffee de Lux - great value, great espresso, very few downsides
If you have to, look at the Starbucks Barista - great espresso, a little overpriced perhaps, but a solid performer.
Krups - don't bother, there are better options.

Keep in mind regardless of what machine you get, the best espresso only comes from a good grind. Without a good grinder, there's no point in buying a nice espresso machine. Check out Baratza grinders - beautiful functioning grinder.

Happy espresso!
Big Dave!